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Por motivos evidentes uno se llega a saturar de estas cosas, me he limitado a hacer un cortar y pegar de cosas ya dichas, crónicas y opiniones de personas que definen a la perfección la nefasta situación actual de las competiciones nacionales en España.
Después de comprobar que las competiciones de escalada funcionan como todo en este pais (de puta pena), prefiero no perder más ni tiempo ni ganas en estos asuntos, y solo para que se sepa, ahi va eso:
Continuar leyendo »

El campeonato de España de escalada de dificultad se traslada de Valladolid a Sevilla. Las fechas, 4 i 5 de octubre se mantienen.

A causa del cierre del espacio “Parque Meseta Esquí†de Valladolid, los organizadores del Campeonato de España de escalada de Dificultad se han visto obligados a cambiar la ubicación de la sede del evento, que se traslada a la ciudad de Sevilla.

Así pues, el Campeonato se celebrará los días 4 y 5 de octubre –fechas que permanecen vigentes-, en una ubicación que aún está por definir.

El próximo sabado 30 de agosto, se celebrará en Oviedo la segunda prueva de la copa de españa de escalada de dificultad.
La prueva se efectuara sobre mismo rocodromo movil que se celebró en Barcelona (el de siempre) que se instalará cerca del Palacio de los Niños en el Parque de invierno.

El pasado Sabado 26 de julio, se celebró en Monreal del Campo el campeonato de Aragón de bulder, i el I Open de Aragon, donde a parte de participar en la competición, todos los participantes pudieron disfrutar durante todo el dia de la picina municipal, del banquete de la comida y del estupendo ambiente festivo que se respiraba en Monreal durante todo el fin de semana.

A parte de una competición, el acto fue un espectaculo y una autentica fiesta, tanto por el espiritu de la organización como por el funcionamiento de la prueva.

Las rondas clasificatorias se iniciaron a las 10 de la mañana, hora en la cual, empezaba a apretar el calor, se efectuaron al más puro estilo americano, escalando todos a un tiempo, sin presiones, ni aislamientos, dando un tiempo de dos horas y media para efectuar los 14 blokes propuestos.

Las rondas finales iniciaron a las 8 de la tarde para los juveniles y femeninas, constaban de 8 bloques y disponian de un tiempo de 1 hora para realizar el mayor numero de problemas propuestos.

Las finales Masculinas se hicieronal estilo internacional, creando un espectaculo único para el publico asistente.

Cristian López se proclamó campeon del Open de Aragon de escalada en bloke.

Sara Aicart del campeonato de Aragón de bloke.

HALL IN TIROL (MI PRIMERA COPA DEL MUNDO)

El pasado 19 y 20 de marzo, la selección española de escalada en bloque partió hacia tierras austriacas para participar en la primera prueba de la copa del mundo del 2008.
La selección de esta modalidad esta formada por el subcampeón nacional Ignasi Tarrazona y los campeones Sara Aicart y Bruno Macías.

En Hall in Tirol tuvieron la oportunidad de medir sus fuerzas y su destreza con los mejores escaladores del planeta.

No fue nada fácil para los ibéricos, y a pesar del duro entrenamiento a que se están sometiendo, se dieron cuenta que no es suficiente tener un buen nivel físico, si no que además se necesita una buena dosis de técnica y rodaje en este tipo de pruebas.

También es cierto que donde habitualmente entrenan nuestros deportista no disponen ni de estructuras tan grandes y modeladas ni de volúmenes tan sobredimensionados como los existentes en la competición.

La selección se tuvo que conformar con un 60 para Ignasi, seguido de Bruno Macias 61 y un 50 para la catalana Sara Aicart.

Positivo: Estan en forma, y ya saben que tienen que mejorar técnicamente y no descuidar el fisico para la próxima compe que asistirán que se celebrará en Belgrado los próximos 17 y 18 de mayo.

Los objetivos para estos deportistas es el Campeonato de Europa que se celebrará en París, y a modo de entrenamiento la FEDME los está llevando a algunas pruebas de la Copa del Mundo para que vaya rodando para enfrentarse a dicha competición.

Los vencedores de este evento fueron los austriacos Anna Stör y Kilia Fitshuber.

Suerte para estos machacas del bloque en la próxima compe a la que asistirán que se celebrará en Serbia.

Redacción: Bruno Macias




Malgrat aquests dies de pluja, ahir es va poder celebrar a Barcelona, entre nuvols i alguna pluja pixanera, la primera prova de la copa d’espanya d’escalada de dificultat.
Després de la classificatòria en la que em vaig sentir tensa, nerviosa i presionada, a la final vaig aconseguir posar-me en situació i escalar més dinàmica i fluida i vaig aconseguir entrar al pódium en tercera posició, a tansols dues presses de la segona i quatre de la Primera classificada.

 

CLASSIFICACÃONS:

femenina:
1ª Andrea Cartas
2ª Daila Ojeda
3ª Sara Aicart

 

masculina:
1º Ramon Julián
2º Marcos Juves
3º Eric López


 
No tinc cap foto de la competició, per que ens vam oblidar la camara, si algú en te alguna i me la vol enviar… em farà ilusió tenir-la!!!

La ciudad de Barcelona ha sido la elegida para albergar la primera prueba de la Copa de España de escalada de dificultad el próximo 17 de mayo.

Aunque centrada en lo mio, el bloque, no dejaré de asistir y menos cayendo tan cerca de casa…
La ubicación ha cambiado reciente mente, ya no se celebrará en el fórum si no que será en la Plaça de l’Escorxador a l’Espanya Industrial.

El pasado 19 y 20 de marzo, la selección española de escalada en bloque partió hacia tierras austriacas para participar en la primera prueba de la copa del mundo del 2008.
La selección de esta modalidad esta formada por el subcampeón nacional Ignasi Tarrazona y los campeones Sara Aicart y Bruno Macías.
Continuar leyendo »

CURSO DE EQUIPADORES

Los dias 3, 4, 5 y 6 de Abril se celebró en Benasque el curso de equipadores nacionales base y superiores, que se caracterizo por el buen ambiente y la intensidad de las clases tanto practicas como teoricas impartidas por Toti, Alberto y Arturo.

Continuar leyendo »

Redactat per: Aniol

Dilluns 17 pel matí: El Roger, la Gemma, la Sara i jo marxem cap a Riglos per passar uns dies de vacances practicant l’escalada rigiliana. És un tipus d’escalada que a mi m’agrada molt i ¿què millor que desploms i bon cantu per oblidar-se durant uns dies de les fines i tècniques plaques montserratines?

Després d’un llarg viatge, de carabanes i camions, arribem al poblet de Riglos i ens dirigim a correcuita cap a los Mallos Pequeños per escalar l’Aguja Roja. Després de planxar el cul al seient del cotxe durant més de 4 hores, el Roger i jo sortim disparats cap a peu de via.
La Pecho lobo (6c+) recorre l’aresta oest d’aquesta magnífica agulla. És una bona via per calentar motors i aclimatar els avantbraços o millor dit els bíceps per a la festa de demà.






Dimarts 18, el temps esta gris, i ha plogut durant la nit, però ens equipem amb tot el material i començem a pujar cap a la base de la Visera.
Aquest cop la Sara, que no necessita aclimatació previa, també vindrà amb nosaltres.
Sens dubte La fiesta de los biceps és de llarg la millor via de los Mallos. Comença amb uns llargs tècnics i més aviat verticals però a partir de la 4ta tirada la cosa comença a desplomar i les patates començen a aparèixer. Encara que des de baix no ho sembli la via té molts reposos, fins i tot pots seure en mig del desplom en una d’aquestes patates enormes.




Dimecres 19 és el dia de marxar, ha estat tota la nit plovent i encara continua.
Marxem cap a Ayerbe i fem parada al bar per esmorzar.
Quan sortim del bar sembla que clareja, aixi que tormen de nou cap a Riglos i en Roger i jo ens disposem a fem la via Vixente Iñuxente (7a) que va paral·lela a la Murciana, al Mallo Pisón.
300 m d’escalada súper atlètica i bastant ràpida. Tot i que a la guia de Riglos recomanen més la Murciana (6c), la Vixente Iñuxente la vaig trobar més variada, amb passos més estètics i en conjunt bastant més recomanable.

Redacció: Aniol Garcia

COPA DE ESPAÑA DE DIFICULTAD ABSOLUTA Y JUVENIL

- Barcelona (Forum) 17,18 de Mayo
- Oviedo 30,31 de Agosto
- Madrid (Ifema) 15,16 de Noviembre

CAMPEONATO DE ESPAÑA DE ESCALADA DIFICULTAD

- Valladolid (Exivia) 04,05 de Octubre

CAMPEONATO DE ESPAÑA DE BÚLDER

- Barcelona (Climbat) 11 de Octubre

Avui s’ha celebrat el I Concurs Caní de Collbató, que ha doblat les nostres expectatives, al convocar quasi mig centenar de gossos participants a la plaça de l’Era i mes d’un centenar de persones assistents com a públic.

El certamen, organitzat per l’oficina de Turisme de l’Ajuntament de Collbató amb el patrocini d’Élite Nutrición, la botiga Cap i Cua d’Esparreguera i Brutus Movile Wash, ha repartit dotze grans premis, tres per als vencedors de cada una de les quatre categories, que eren: el gos mes guapu, el mes simpatic, el mes obedient i el show-can, entre els 44 gossos que s’han inscrit en aquest concurs que ha començat a les 10.00 hores.

Continuar leyendo »

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Pel que sembla, aquest any la grip ha estat entrenant més del compte per que ha tornat mes forta que mai!!!
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MARXEM A BELGICA

El pròxim dimarts 12 de febrer l’Edu, el David i jo marxem a Belgica.
Hem estat convidats per la federació belga a un open d’escalada, el vertiktrip 2008,
on es barrejaran les disciplines de dificultat i bloc: X-Trem Contest.

Per la seva part el David fara unes conferencies sobre entrenament: sobre metodes d’entrenament, planificació i tecniques i estrategia en competició.

La competició serà el dissabte 16 i durant tota la setmana abans de la competició estarem fent turisme pels rocodroms de Belgica.

I CONCURS CANà DE COLLBATÓ

El proxim diumenge 16 de Març es celebrarà el I concurs caní de Collbató, a la plaça de l’Era.
Continuar leyendo »

PATINAR DUELE

Hace un par de semanas, Aniol y yo estabamos en el decathlon comprando algunas cosas que nos hacian falta, y no se muy bien como ni por qué, salimos de la tienda con un par de patines para cada uno… Continuar leyendo »

BUEN RESULTADO EN JACA.

Por segundo año consecutivo he conseguido la primera posición en la competición del IV encuentro de escaladores del pirineo, Aniol volvió a quedarse a las puertas de la final, eso si, este año compitiendo en la categoria Absoluta, remarcar que fue el unico competidor que logró hacer el lanzamiento de 2.30m.

Un año más la competición de bloque de jaca ha sido todo un éxito; a nivel organizativo y de participación, y las estructuras donde se desarrolla la competición son una pasada.



 

 

 

 

 

 




 
La clasificatoria constaba de 21 bloques y un lanzamiento, y disponíamos de tres horas para encadenar el máximo numero de bloques posible.

 

 
Yo conseguí encadenar 20 bloques un buen numero de ellos a vista.

La final constaba de 12 bloques, claramente más dificiles, (uno de los cuales se quedó sin encadenar).
Disponíamos de una hora y media para ir probando.

En esta solo conseguí encadenar 4 de ellos, dos a vista y los otros a base de algunos pegues, hecho esto, me dedique a linchar a pegues el resto de bloques hasta agotar todo el tiempo del que disponíamos.

Los premios estuvieron muy bien, hubieron muchos premios para todas las categorias, y el primer premio de absoluta, a parte del premio en metálico, constaba de dos circuitos completos en un Spa de jaca; todo un detalle!!!

En resumen una jornada estupenda y una competición 100% recomendable!!!

Podeis leer más sobre la compe en:
El blog de Rafa, en kanuionak y
8a.nu

Super llençament de l'AniolEste próximo domingo 27 de enero, se celebrará en Jaca, el IV encuentro de escaladores del Pirineo.
Se trata de un Open de bloque, al que ya asistimos el año pasado a la III edición y este año, no nos lo queremos perder. Hay que decir que este año asistiremos con algo más de ropa, ya que el año pasado la clasificatoria se desarrolló a -4ºC y la final a 0ºC.


 

 

 

 

 

La competición se desarrolla en dos partes, clasificatoria: formada por 20 bloques y sin arbitros dónde los competidores tienen 4 o 5 horas para resolver los problemas, y la final: formada por 8 bloques controlados por árbitros donde los competidores tenian una o dos horas para encadenar el mayor numero de bloques posible.
Aniol tratará de mejorar su 9ª posicion del año pasado y yo de conservar la 1ª posición.

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